Gorilla

Gorilla

Friday, March 18, 2016

Observations of a polar bear

Okay, I have to admit that my last post, concerning rain, was a bit dramatic. But now let’s discuss the effect of cold weather, relatively speaking, on the population.

When it rains here in Rwanda, the temperatures are cooler than normal. This place is not like a tropical jungle, where rain turns the landscape into a steaming sauna with humidity so thick you can cut it with a machete (or panga, using a local term). No, because Rwanda is at a high elevation—over 5,000 feet—rainy days can be actually cold. Much like Northern California.

But coldness is relative. So when people ask me, Brian, aren’t you cold? Where’s your jacket? I reply, I don’t get cold. I don’t need a jacket. I didn’t bring any sweaters or jackets when I came to Rwanda. They don’t understand this at all. To them, 20˚C (68˚F) is cold. Anything below 15˚C (59˚F) is freezing, life-threatening. In that temperature range, people are bundled up in thick jackets and gloves. Good reason to stay home from work or school. Fortunately, it doesn’t get this cold very often—except in the middle of the night, when nobody notices anyway. And the population manages to survive.

But, as a polar bear (and to Africans, what is that, anyway?), I find myself running hot most of the time. Unfortunately, there is no ice floe around here to retire to. Not even a meat locker to step into every once in a while. And air conditioning? What’s that?

Speaking of ice, it is hard to get it in a drink except at the fancier restaurants. That’s because people don’t like cold, even in a drink. So if you order soda or beer, the server will ask, do you want that cold? That’s because the normal, sane person who is a non-foreigner will take soda or beer warm. Automatically. Now, in America, I cannot imagine anyone having beer that is not ice-cold. It would be like drinking spit (pardon the graphic comparison). But, hey, to each his own.

To be fair, they do have ice cream here. And it is indeed cold. But ice cream has not caught on too well in Rwanda. I have thought, wouldn’t it be great to open an ice cream shop here—probably the only one in town—but then you would have to overcome a huge cultural bias. Sure, it’s sweet and creamy, but it’s cold. Yuk. So there goes that idea.

Friday, March 11, 2016

Rainy days and Tuesdays

Here it is: a Tuesday, a day that is normally reserved for preaching from morning to evening, but from the get-go, the rain started falling, and fell all morning, and, alas, from the looks of it, will continue to fall all afternoon also. So it looks like my Bible study at the construction site in Gacuriro—the one that requires a half-hour of actual study and two hours of travel time—is cancelled today. Unless I go in my swimming trunks, which would not be appropriate for the occasion, not to mention uncomfortable.

When it rains in Rwanda, it rains. This is no mere drizzle, but often an experience of Noachian-era proportions. From a warm and secure environment (if not always completely waterproof), a glance out the window can be blinding. Even the cockroaches run for cover. There is lightning! And thunder! The downpour is deafening. The rain falls off the edge of the metal roofs in huge sheets, resulting in large, muddy pools. And life everywhere completely shuts down. (Compare Job 37:6, 7.)

People in Rwanda are, shall we say, afraid of rain, even in the slightest amounts. There is this prevailing notion that if you are exposed to rain you will get sick. Somehow this substance called water, which is perfectly harmless when used to cook or bathe oneself, suddenly becomes noxious when it falls from the heavens, a sure sign of divine displeasure. So everyone huddles in the shops. Or under the shelter of bus stages. They wait, expectantly, for the moment when the rain completely and unequivocally stops, because—heaven forbid—one cannot conceive of risking one’s life and health just to go to work or school, or to attend an important meeting with the President. If you have to keep him waiting for four hours, so be it!

What of umbrellas, you might say? They have several drawbacks, which the original inventor(s) no doubt failed to take into consideration. First, they cost money. Then, they have to be carried, which can be a nuisance. And there may be a certain gender-related stigma attached to the practice. (From my observation, about 15% of the population here carry umbrellas, and the majority of these are women. Except that those who use umbrellas against the sun are all women.) Much easier, it can be seen, for people to just slip into a bar with friends when it starts raining and order beers. The longer it rains, the more beers.

Well, I, for one, do use an umbrella. I would rather get somewhere and accomplish something, even if it means getting stared at. But there are certain days—today being one of them—when even the sturdiest umbrella is helplessly reduced to a shell of its former self. It will be about as effective as covering yourself with a newspaper, except that the newspaper will not, as it is flailing in the wind, stab you in the eye. So, this Chinese-American-Rwandan has decided, along with everyone else, that today is a washout (!). But there is a positive side. The natural vegetation loves days like this. And the six kids living next door, who normally would be kicking a soccer ball against my wall and shouting at the top of their lungs, are forced inside. And this is good preparation, I suppose, for the month of April, when we will get a whopping six inches of rain on average, the highest for any month during the year. So let us steel ourselves for the inevitable. Meanwhile, the most pressing question is, with only a bag of brown sugar in the house, what am I going to eat for lunch today?

Speaking of water, though, my freestanding water tank in the bathroom has sprung leaks in several places, keeping the floor nice and moist for microorganisms. So I have had to place a bucket under the leaks. I would use my three large basins (blue, green, red), but they are presently full of water. Yes, since the beginning of the year, we have had water on a fairly regular basis now, which is great cause for celebration, so maybe hoarding water is not such an issue. Nevertheless, until the brother comes to repair the tank, it is a matter of getting used to hearing the sound of leaking water all night long. One might think this is soothing, but you know how the power of suggestion works? I already have to get up in the middle of the night once or twice as it is, more after having had ikivuguto (fermented milk) earlier that evening. Life does have its challenges.

Monday, March 7, 2016

3rd Chinese meeting, special pioneers

Here are the latest developments in our Chinese pre-group:

The branch assigned two special pioneers, Benjamin and Innocent, to our congregation to work in the Chinese field. Of course, they are Rwandans and don't know a lick of Chinese, but my job is to teach them! So far we have had a few class sessions independent of the class I teach on Sundays with the rest of the group.

They both graduated from the School for Single Brothers and served in different parts of the country, Innocent in Kinyarwanda and Benjamin in Sign Language. They seem eager to learn, and we hope their presence will give impetus to our Chinese field.

Benjamin and Innocent

Then, this past Sunday, we had our third Chinese meeting. Attendance was 18, including 8 Chinese people (4 adults and 4 kids). Progress is being made!